Broke the 100 km mark yesterday and am gradually nearing Santiago. It was such a relief to pass from the dry, endless meseta into the rolling hills, verdent fields and old mossy stone walls of Galicia. For the first time in weeks, I pulled out my sweatshirt. Last night I watched a herd of cows pass down the street of my albergue and Ive really been enjoying the walk past beautiful gardens full of tomatoes, broccoli, lettace and peas. Ive seen a change in, not only the physical landscape, but the culinary environment, as well. Pulpo (octopus!), empanadas de atun, fish, seafood, fresh cheese, milk, beef. Wow. Yesterday I met a really fantastic dairy farmer with the cutest little herding dog that Ive ever seen, named Res. He is about 12 inches tall, full of spunk and with very intelligent eyes. Quite impressive to watch this tiny puppy herding huge cows down the street. I threatened to throw him in my mochilla and bring him with me to Santiago...didnt go that far, but Res did come snuggle in my tent last night.
Although there has been a welcome change in landscape in the last few days, there are other changes that I have enjoyed less. For many people, the walk to Santiago is for the purpose of gaining a "Compostela" certificate, given by the Catholic church as a pardon of sins. The Composetala is awarded to anyone who completes the last 100 km of El Camino. Lots of people start the walk at the 100 point mark, in order to get the Compostela, and the trail has been packed. With such a short term experience, comes a different mentality and changed social climate on El Camino. Many people wake up at 3 or 4 am to rush to the next albergue to ensure themselves a bed. Rather than greeting others with a "hola, buen camino" people tend to race past others. There are now massive groups of "tourist pilgrams" who take a bus from city to city for a stamp or walk en mass through the countryside. For me, it has been frustrating to see this change--from an experience in which the journey is enjoyed and the landscape savored to a race to the finish line. The albergues have been filling up quickly and peregrinos are put out to sleep in the streets or under a tree. It is easy to feel exasperated that, after three weeks of such a joyful experience, there is now a competative, stressful Camino climate.
But, I have decided that although the Camino around me has changed, I will not be affected by it. I will continue to walk in search of peace, enjoying the moment and treating others with kindness. If I have to sleep outside, if I arrive last at the albergue, so be it. And, I have found that I am always provided for.....One Galician family opened their home and offered space to as many peregrinos as possible. An albergue put out a tent to house travelers. I am determined to have faith in the kindness of others and to be a positive contribution to the Camino.
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