Yesterday, I completed my pilgramage to Santiago de Compostela. Running into the city con una sonrisa grandote, I finally walked my last kilometer and stood before the cathedral at the end of the long, long road. I decided to enter Santiago alone, ending my journey just as I started it. I walked down the hill from El Monte de Gozo (the Mountain of Joy) to see Santiago glimmering in the distance, golden with the evening sun and with the ocean breeze on my skin. I nearly cried for joy to see my final destination. I chose to finish the trip with the setting sun. The end of the day, the end of a journey.
But, the start of something new.
Today, after receiving my official Compostela (certificate of completion) from the Catholic Church (thank you, Pope!), I wandered the city. Ever a pilgrim, it felt strange not to spend my time walking, so I explored up and down the streets. I also indulged in a pair of new jeans and a fresh shirt. It is nice to feel a little bit pretty, after a month of being gross, and I fully plan to ditch all of my nonessential pilgrim clothes. Then, on to the Pilgrims Mass and the giant swinging incense ball. I did all of the traditional end-of-Camino things (visited the cathedral, looked at the statues, bought a few kitschy souveneirs). Tonight is fiesta and fireworks! Then, "home again, home again, jiggity jigg."
map of el camino frances
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
the rat race and el campo verde
Broke the 100 km mark yesterday and am gradually nearing Santiago. It was such a relief to pass from the dry, endless meseta into the rolling hills, verdent fields and old mossy stone walls of Galicia. For the first time in weeks, I pulled out my sweatshirt. Last night I watched a herd of cows pass down the street of my albergue and Ive really been enjoying the walk past beautiful gardens full of tomatoes, broccoli, lettace and peas. Ive seen a change in, not only the physical landscape, but the culinary environment, as well. Pulpo (octopus!), empanadas de atun, fish, seafood, fresh cheese, milk, beef. Wow. Yesterday I met a really fantastic dairy farmer with the cutest little herding dog that Ive ever seen, named Res. He is about 12 inches tall, full of spunk and with very intelligent eyes. Quite impressive to watch this tiny puppy herding huge cows down the street. I threatened to throw him in my mochilla and bring him with me to Santiago...didnt go that far, but Res did come snuggle in my tent last night.
Although there has been a welcome change in landscape in the last few days, there are other changes that I have enjoyed less. For many people, the walk to Santiago is for the purpose of gaining a "Compostela" certificate, given by the Catholic church as a pardon of sins. The Composetala is awarded to anyone who completes the last 100 km of El Camino. Lots of people start the walk at the 100 point mark, in order to get the Compostela, and the trail has been packed. With such a short term experience, comes a different mentality and changed social climate on El Camino. Many people wake up at 3 or 4 am to rush to the next albergue to ensure themselves a bed. Rather than greeting others with a "hola, buen camino" people tend to race past others. There are now massive groups of "tourist pilgrams" who take a bus from city to city for a stamp or walk en mass through the countryside. For me, it has been frustrating to see this change--from an experience in which the journey is enjoyed and the landscape savored to a race to the finish line. The albergues have been filling up quickly and peregrinos are put out to sleep in the streets or under a tree. It is easy to feel exasperated that, after three weeks of such a joyful experience, there is now a competative, stressful Camino climate.
But, I have decided that although the Camino around me has changed, I will not be affected by it. I will continue to walk in search of peace, enjoying the moment and treating others with kindness. If I have to sleep outside, if I arrive last at the albergue, so be it. And, I have found that I am always provided for.....One Galician family opened their home and offered space to as many peregrinos as possible. An albergue put out a tent to house travelers. I am determined to have faith in the kindness of others and to be a positive contribution to the Camino.
Although there has been a welcome change in landscape in the last few days, there are other changes that I have enjoyed less. For many people, the walk to Santiago is for the purpose of gaining a "Compostela" certificate, given by the Catholic church as a pardon of sins. The Composetala is awarded to anyone who completes the last 100 km of El Camino. Lots of people start the walk at the 100 point mark, in order to get the Compostela, and the trail has been packed. With such a short term experience, comes a different mentality and changed social climate on El Camino. Many people wake up at 3 or 4 am to rush to the next albergue to ensure themselves a bed. Rather than greeting others with a "hola, buen camino" people tend to race past others. There are now massive groups of "tourist pilgrams" who take a bus from city to city for a stamp or walk en mass through the countryside. For me, it has been frustrating to see this change--from an experience in which the journey is enjoyed and the landscape savored to a race to the finish line. The albergues have been filling up quickly and peregrinos are put out to sleep in the streets or under a tree. It is easy to feel exasperated that, after three weeks of such a joyful experience, there is now a competative, stressful Camino climate.
But, I have decided that although the Camino around me has changed, I will not be affected by it. I will continue to walk in search of peace, enjoying the moment and treating others with kindness. If I have to sleep outside, if I arrive last at the albergue, so be it. And, I have found that I am always provided for.....One Galician family opened their home and offered space to as many peregrinos as possible. An albergue put out a tent to house travelers. I am determined to have faith in the kindness of others and to be a positive contribution to the Camino.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Yo soy espanol, espanol, espanol....
Viva la Espana! You can imagine the excitement and craziness here as Spain continued further and further through the World Cup bracket. Soccer is not just a sport in Spain, it is a religion. Futbol is one of the few things uniting a country that is incredibly regional (several different languages, strong regional cultural pride). I knew that if they made the finals, I had to celebrate in a major city, not a tiny village. Pushing really hard (about 70 km in 2 days), I arrived in Leon on the morning of the 11th. Already the city was a sea of yellow and red!
To watch the game, I went to a plaza in the city where el partido was being projected onto a large screen. Hundreds of fans crowded around, wrapped in Spanish flags, blowing on horns and banging on drums. Abuelos, children, jovenes, all types of people--booing in unison, cheering together, hoping for a monumental Spanish World Cup win. When finally la Roja scored a goal, a group of fans took off running down the street, waving banderas and hooting like banchees. I, of course, had to follow them. Running pilgram-style (more like a hobble, thanks to my blisters), I followed the crowd through the streets of Leon to the central plaza, where everyone jumped into the fountain. Splashing, yelling, high-fiving, throwing firework, banging drums, drinking vino. It was nearly a riot and I couldn´t help but marvel at the exuberance of this celebration (which would probably have been broken up by the police in the US). The entire plaza filled with fans and there were people climbing buildings, standing on top of bus stops and dancing in the streets. There were giant flags flying, a huge water fight broke out, men dressed like matadors danced together, old ladies hugged, firecrackers exploded. Incredible. The fiesta continued all night, but I finally returned to my hotel to fall back into bed at about 1 am.
One more note about the World Cup. In the US, you may or may not have heard about el pulpo (the octopus), but it Spain it was the hot topic. Apparently a women in Spain somewhere has a pet octopus. Before each Copa Mundial game, she showed the pulpo the flags of the two teams playing and gave the pulpo the chance to chose one. The pulpo has an 80 percent accuracy rate in chosing the winning team. Before the final of the World Cup, I heard Spaniards say things like "El equipo nuestro tiene que ganar. El pulpo lo dijo." ("Our team has to win. The octopus said so.") What a ridiculous and amazing superstition....
To watch the game, I went to a plaza in the city where el partido was being projected onto a large screen. Hundreds of fans crowded around, wrapped in Spanish flags, blowing on horns and banging on drums. Abuelos, children, jovenes, all types of people--booing in unison, cheering together, hoping for a monumental Spanish World Cup win. When finally la Roja scored a goal, a group of fans took off running down the street, waving banderas and hooting like banchees. I, of course, had to follow them. Running pilgram-style (more like a hobble, thanks to my blisters), I followed the crowd through the streets of Leon to the central plaza, where everyone jumped into the fountain. Splashing, yelling, high-fiving, throwing firework, banging drums, drinking vino. It was nearly a riot and I couldn´t help but marvel at the exuberance of this celebration (which would probably have been broken up by the police in the US). The entire plaza filled with fans and there were people climbing buildings, standing on top of bus stops and dancing in the streets. There were giant flags flying, a huge water fight broke out, men dressed like matadors danced together, old ladies hugged, firecrackers exploded. Incredible. The fiesta continued all night, but I finally returned to my hotel to fall back into bed at about 1 am.
One more note about the World Cup. In the US, you may or may not have heard about el pulpo (the octopus), but it Spain it was the hot topic. Apparently a women in Spain somewhere has a pet octopus. Before each Copa Mundial game, she showed the pulpo the flags of the two teams playing and gave the pulpo the chance to chose one. The pulpo has an 80 percent accuracy rate in chosing the winning team. Before the final of the World Cup, I heard Spaniards say things like "El equipo nuestro tiene que ganar. El pulpo lo dijo." ("Our team has to win. The octopus said so.") What a ridiculous and amazing superstition....
Thursday, July 8, 2010
La Rioja, Burgos
A few highlights from the last week:
-The game that qualified Spain for the World Cup final! Spain has not gone to the final in a long time (maybe ever) and there is a growing excitement here. When they qualified, there was muchas fiestas, lots of horn honking and yelling.
-Exploring the cliffs and caves near Tosantos. There were millions of rock formations of quartz chrystal shining in the sun. We climbed through patches of wild oregano and among thistles, searching for treasure.
-Having my needs met in the most unexpected ways. A hippie peregrino named Marcelino, who gave me a walking stick. Food offered by strangers, when I need it. Singing nuns at the albergue. Encouragement from a parting friend. A well timed fountain in the desert heat.
-Discovering the joy of the parrocial albergue. Most people stay in the municipal albergue, run by the city and packed with lots of people. You pay 5 euros, get a bunk bed and a kitchen for making pasta (if you are lucky). But, the parrocials are lovely. They are run by volunteers and everyone works together to make dinner and clean up. After dinner, nighttime prayers and guitar playing before off to bed. The people are delightful and all have walked the Camino before, so they have tons of wisdom to share. These albergues are donativos, which means that you pay as you can and participate in the community life.
-Rain, a final break in the heat
-Learning how to best pop and clean blisters. Gross, yes, but necessary on the Camino.
-Wild poppies, everywhere!
-Vineyards and great (cheap) Spanish wine
-The game that qualified Spain for the World Cup final! Spain has not gone to the final in a long time (maybe ever) and there is a growing excitement here. When they qualified, there was muchas fiestas, lots of horn honking and yelling.
-Exploring the cliffs and caves near Tosantos. There were millions of rock formations of quartz chrystal shining in the sun. We climbed through patches of wild oregano and among thistles, searching for treasure.
-Having my needs met in the most unexpected ways. A hippie peregrino named Marcelino, who gave me a walking stick. Food offered by strangers, when I need it. Singing nuns at the albergue. Encouragement from a parting friend. A well timed fountain in the desert heat.
-Discovering the joy of the parrocial albergue. Most people stay in the municipal albergue, run by the city and packed with lots of people. You pay 5 euros, get a bunk bed and a kitchen for making pasta (if you are lucky). But, the parrocials are lovely. They are run by volunteers and everyone works together to make dinner and clean up. After dinner, nighttime prayers and guitar playing before off to bed. The people are delightful and all have walked the Camino before, so they have tons of wisdom to share. These albergues are donativos, which means that you pay as you can and participate in the community life.
-Rain, a final break in the heat
-Learning how to best pop and clean blisters. Gross, yes, but necessary on the Camino.
-Wild poppies, everywhere!
-Vineyards and great (cheap) Spanish wine
pulling a Forrest Gump
A few days ago, I felt a very strange motivation and just wanted to keep walking and walking. I was curious how much I could push myself and felt the need to prove myself to myself, that I have the willpower and ability to be stretched. I kept thinking "only 10 km more" and wondering how much I could walk in one day?
Turns out the answer is 46 kilometers.
Needless to say, I slept well that night.
Turns out the answer is 46 kilometers.
Needless to say, I slept well that night.
estrellas, la meseta and apologies
hello to all my friends and family who have been following this blog. Until today, I did not think that many people were actually reading my ramblings....but, I do need to apologize for the lack of postings and contact in the last week. In this part of Spain, internet cafes have been hard to come by, especially since I have been staying in small pueblos and focusing on my daily 8 hours of walking. I am truly sorry for causing worry or concern and want to reassure you that I am healthy, in good spirits (considering the wear and tear of El Camino) and continuing upon my route as expected. For the remainer of my trip I will make a serious effort to check in every few days, so as not to cause worry, but can´t promise that I will be able to find a connect to the web every day.
"Compostela" means countryside of stars. Last night I had the opportunity to walk under the stars, through the Spanish meseta, enjoying the night. The stars were brighter that I have ever seen and the Milky Way was clearly visible. The meseta (desert) is a flat, dry stretch of land that is killer to walk during the daytime, especially due to the intense heat. I have finally learned the reason for the Spanish afternoon siesta--it is nearly impossible to accomplish anything between 11 am and 5 pm due to the soaring temperature. So, to was a gift to gain some kilometers at night, with a group of friends and a head lamp. Passing through towns at 2 am, we caused a chorus of barking dogs along the way, but were able to enjoy the night wind blowing off the meseta.
"Compostela" means countryside of stars. Last night I had the opportunity to walk under the stars, through the Spanish meseta, enjoying the night. The stars were brighter that I have ever seen and the Milky Way was clearly visible. The meseta (desert) is a flat, dry stretch of land that is killer to walk during the daytime, especially due to the intense heat. I have finally learned the reason for the Spanish afternoon siesta--it is nearly impossible to accomplish anything between 11 am and 5 pm due to the soaring temperature. So, to was a gift to gain some kilometers at night, with a group of friends and a head lamp. Passing through towns at 2 am, we caused a chorus of barking dogs along the way, but were able to enjoy the night wind blowing off the meseta.
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