The french know how to party! Even the best American bash really cannot compare.... I went to the birthday party of 70 year old Marcel (Dominiques father). There were about 100 French cousins, aunts, uncles, neices, nephews, friends, random foreigners (just me, actually :). I was explained who was related to who, but it was quite confusing (in French) and I would be lost if asked to make a family tree. Lots of kids running around, people smoking, talking Cup du Monde futbol, joking and laughing. At one point in the day, a whole group of men gathered to play les boulles (bocci ball), to jokingly argue over whose ball is closest to the target and to drink beer. The party lasted from 12 noon (aperativ and snacks) until way past 1 am when we left (by that point everyone had moved on to dancing, karioke, wine and drinking songs). There was a series of courses--breads, salads, meats, dessert, cheese and eventually back to the beginning again. As le americain, I participated mainly by lots of broken french and hand signals, as wrll as dutifully drinking whatever alcohol was put in front of me "por un souveneir." As soon as one cup was drained, I would miraculously find a full cup in my hand, placed there by an elderly frenchman with a twinkle in his eye. To finish off the night I was given a 20 year old cognc, illegal in France because it is so strong and hidden in the bottle of a tamer drink. Everyone was super kind to me and I had an interesting "conversation" with some of the younger, university crowd who lamented the stereotypes of the French--baguette, biciclette and beret. I argued that the American sterotype might be worse--loud, fat and imperialist. We laughed at that.
On Sunday, we took a drive along the Breton shoreline. So beautiful! Craggy rocks, rugged beaches, a blue sky. We parked by the side of the road and explored among the tidal pools, climbing rocks and trying to catch crabs, barnacles, shrimp, fish and clams. Frederique and Dom taught me some of the french names and we all jumped and hollared when a big crab lept out from under a rock. Then, to the town of le Croisic for crepes and to enjoy a local festival, with folk dancing, folkloric costumes and music. Believe it or not Brittany is very heavily influenced by Gaelic culture, so there were bagpipes and flutes typical of the region. We drove past the salt marshes of Gueronde. When the tide comes in, it brings briny water into shallow pools. The sun makes the water evaporate, leaving course sea salt behind, which is swept up and sold. I plan to bring some along in my pack, along with the blue-white striped Breton sailor shirt that I bought.
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